Finally time to take you on a tour of the accessory exhibitions at London Fashion Week. For many of the accessory designers it can be difficult to display their designs. Even if their hats or shoes are used in a runway show the can be overlooked or hidden beneath long dresses or trousers.┬á The exhibitions are the best way for buyers and press to see the new collections and pick up on new trends for the next season.
My friend Mich Dulce designs beautifully intricate millinery using woven and sculpted techniques to create sleek designs with a touch of whimsey. Bows and triangles which often give the appearance of little kitten ears and a personal favourite. I snapped Anna Dello Russo wearing one of Mich’s designs last LFW. For this collection the designer introduced intricate bead work in bright colours, for a modern take on tribal. The beading delicately cascaded down from the hats to the shoulders. Here you can see me with Mich, we met through our Vivienne Westwood connections and love of extra high heels. You can also see Lawrence too flipping through the lookbook in his statement Louise Gray cardigan.
One big trend which has been bubbling for sometime, but will hit AW13 with a bang is velvet. French Sole shoes had some gorgeous styles from paisley velvet smoking slippers to lush forest green and plum velvet ballerina’s. The ribbon tie jazz-shoes and pointed Mary-Janes indicated that the jumping 1920’s and swing 1960’s will be sticking around too.
In the New-Gen room we were welcomed with the chance to admire Simone Rocha and Sister by Sibling designs up close, both designers have a real eye for detail.
We were also treated to the chance to play around with gum-ball machines filled with designer pin badges and sweets, so fun!
I’ve been harboring a deep desire for Sophia Webster, her shoes are like pieces of art and candy combined. She is one of the most creative shoe designers around and I am happy to see her wares appearing up North now too in Harvey Nichols. On a purely selfish note it is my goal to snag a pair of her shoes or one of her amazing clutch bags for myself this year.
I have to read you a piece from the Aurora Ozma millinery ‘Backseam Bullet’ AW13 collection press release “the haute ritualistic, avant-surrealist headwear collection. Reflect upon a deathly serene scene fo meticulously magical headwear of bitter-sweet majesty. Backseam bullet reflects upon influence such as the Belle-Epoque, tattered American-tan stockings, girdles and a fascination of the fixation of repulsion…All executed with cut-throat balletic grace and hand witch-crafted precision in London, England.” You love her already right! From twisting turbans, flowing veils, boaters and berets Ozma took her ‘poisoned’ hand crafted blackberries and deliciously covered her hats with them, on naked kid leather and pools of black glitter they shine bright. A sumptuously devilish collection.
I had a lengthy chat with Liam Fahy about the shoe industry and how shoes are displayed (more on that soon), but what struck me first were the rows upon rows of┬á perfect shiny, silver eyelets. This kind of thing pleases me immensely. My attention was then draw to the collections show piece, the flashing disco boots, covered in tiny flashing LED’s. Creating a show piece give the designer the opportunity to push boundaries and run wild with design when the retail collection has to adhere to sale and manufacturing constraints. But boy do I know so many of you who would love to have a stomp around in these!
Emma Yeo headwear designs told us some really interesting fact about the construction of her AW13 collection ‘Innate Reaction’. Inspired by the delicate moth the fragility of the insect was translated though the designers trademark laser cut wood pieces. The designs might look fragile however they are in face very tough, having to be sanded and treated they withstand a lot. They are also very light, not at all heavy as you might expect. Each hat comes in it’s own wooden hat-box too, a detail I appreciated.
Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW