LFW SS14: Day 3 Backstage at Vivienne Westwood

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A hundred people in a tiny, sauna-like room, make up, false hair, backcombing, hairspray, palettes of face paint, glittering jewellery, huge taffeta bows, beautiful models, talented dressers, fast as lighting MUA’s all the things that go into producing a show. Items to note, snail necklaces, spiked manicures, squiggle satchels and multi coloured ripped up pixie boots.Vivienne arrived sporting a funky cropped new hair style, she created herself. Lily Cole glides in with a mane of red hair to perform a dance piece – that I didn’t see as I was steaming her outfit but that’s a story for another day. Enjoy the photos, show pic’s to come tomorrow.

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Backstage at Vivienne Westwood Red Label SS14 London Fashion Week

Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

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LFW SS14: Day 2 It’s all a bit Coco

The Shows

Even though Le Grand Mademoiselle Coco Chanel died over 40 years ago her influence on fashion is still being felt. Sister by Sibling took on boxy tweed jackets and twin sets fired up in their trade mark bright colours and leopard print. Textile and fashion designer Hellen van Rees has been inspired by Chanel’s fantasy tweed through out her work, this season again she created incredible fuzzy, oversized tweeds worked into minimal garments.

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Orla Kiely took us on a journey to what can only be described as a Parisian Safari! If you can imagine a bunch of French girl scouts from the 60’s chasing lions that you just about have it!

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The chance to get up close and personal with collections is always a pure luxury. The Maiko Takeda headpieces, recently worn by Bjork, look sharp and lethal. On touch however they were surprisingly soft and springy, light as feathers. Between Sophia Webster and Liam Fahy it was a virtual shoe fest, with Webster’s quirky candy shoes revamped this season with even cheekier logos contrasting Fahy’s dark brocade prints and concealed spikes. Nobody could keep their hands, or should I say heads, off my girl Mich Dulce’s millinery, with a colour pallet of cream, black, pale blue and pink her designs appeal to the edgy or prim woman alike. I took great joy in trying on basically everything with ears! Check out my Instagram (@SuperElevated to see)

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The Street

Whilst moderately drier today show goers outfits were still suffering from extreme weather fatigue. Nobody really knew what to wear to stay warm and dry but also smart enough to sit FROW. The answer it seemed was to throw on a cosy oversized knit and pile on sparkling bauble jewellery to add some glam.

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As for me I was dressed part Barbie, part fuzzy monkey. In all the show excitement I forgot to get a snap of my own outfit luckily my street style snapper buddy did so I will have a photo for you soon, if you can’t wait check out my social media for blurry selfies!

Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

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‘TRUTH’ Vivienne Westwood MAN Label Spring / Summer 14

MAN Label Spring- Summer 2014

I don’t usually like to copy full press releases, however I will make the exception for Vivienne and Andreas as I think you will like to read it in their own worlds. My notes on the Vivienne Westwood MAN collection are to keep you eye on the squiggle print brogues (in fact all the mens shoes in this collection were particularly strong, extra in fact I wish they made some of the slipper shoes in women’s sizes because I want them so much) and the Climate Revolution jumper, they will be the key pieces of the season:

I wanted a soft more feminine feel to the clothes, more ease to the fit.
Andreas and the team took their inspiration from India. And of course the first great impression is the Indian Rajas with their heavy-lidded almond eyes and their perfumed beards, their turbans and covered in a wealth of jewels- no human creatures have ever been so wealthy.

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But we passed on because I donÔÇÖt have direct experience of India. I have only my romantic impressions and our inspiration comes from museums and photographs: Hindu gods and dancing and colour and flowers and spices and tigers and the jungle and the Gangees, temples and sariÔÇÖs worn by the most elegant women, beauty and grace┬¼- and the Indian children I have met in England are lively and intelligent- a huge population, the cast system. Nothing changed after the British left in 1950. The new rulers exploited the country and its people like the old colonials.

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We knew we had to have colour but we began with whites, white that shines in the sun and white that looks dusty, cream and black with texture and pattern and mixed with indigo. Then checks and prints, then some colour and colour degrade. I think the overall colour effect belongs in the light of the sun.

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Does sunshine disguise poverty to the English outsider.

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A few motifs from Persia or Morocco crept in. There is a feeling of being in an oriental garden.

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In a recent essay Noam Chomsky summed up whatÔÇÖs happening in the world: the rich are racing as fast as they can to destroy the world, the poor are fighting to stop them.
India is the most extreme example of this. The government is selling the countryÔÇÖs mineral rights to corporations and consortiums.

(these huge profits can pay for corruption)

PhotoÔÇÖs and comments come from Arundhati RoyÔÇÖs book ÔÇÿBroken RepublicÔÇÖ.

When the land is ruined the people have nowhere to go. Maoist organization fights the evictions and when people have nowhere to go they are considered Maoists, many do join the Maoists in the forests: young people, victims of atrocity, girls and boys join them. The police steal everything they can, rape, burn; they are paid to kill. The government is increasing the police force. They are purposely creating war. Why? Because they want the people off the land. Why? Because most of the minerals the government is selling are still in the ground.
ÔÇÿThe Boghghat Dam will submerge the entire area that we have been walking in for days. All that forest, that history, those stories. More than a hundred villages. Is that the plan then? To drown people like rats, so that the integrated steel plant in Lohandiguda and the bauxite mine and aluminium refinery in the Keshkal Ghats can have the river? Who will stop the Indravati (river) from being stolen? Someone must.ÔÇÖ

(Maoists in the forest)
Why is Bradley Manning featured in a collection about India? (no turbans but military berets) Well I always highjack my collections to talk politics and Bradley is there because everything is connected.
The depredation in India is caused by the global political financial war machine. Bradley stood in the path of this great juggernaut. He told the TRUTH by exposing war crimes and documents which revealed that the purpose of our wars is perpetual war for the purpose of total plunder.

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You can check out Vivienne Westwood.com for more details

How to create next seasons looks now – Back Stage with Bobbi Brown

How to create next seasons looks now -Back Stage with Bobbi Brown at LFW

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During the whirlwind that is London Fashion Week I took the chance to go backstage with Bobbi Brown, to give you an insiderÔÇÖs look into the hottest beauty trends for AW13. There is no need to wait until next season to try these out though, as the two statement make-up looks are perfect for summer too. Taking influence from the swinging 60s lead artist Florrie White created a sultry Brigitte Bardot style look for the Orla Kiely show. Toned down to keep it fresh and easy to wear to the office a smoky chocolate brown eye was smudged on. Blush was kept to a light sweep of pink and lips a subtle shimmer of golden beige. With a messy bun this is a perfect daytime look, just let down your hair and add a shimmer eye shadow and slick of eye liner to take the look to after dark.

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In contrast for the Jena.Theo show lead artist Kim Brown opted for a modern grunge look. Gorgeous dewy skin was created with lots of moisture, blush kept neutral and a soft mid-brown eye shadow to keep the focus on the statement lip. A vibrant pop of colour in matt acid orange made the look oh so modern. Defined brows, reminiscent of model of the moment Cara Delavigne, gave a youthful feel.

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If you fancy trying out either of these looks the friendly make-up artists at Bobbi Brown counter will be keen to show you how. If you want to try it yourself the Orla Kiely look is easy to recreate all you need is a soft, eye shadow crayon which you can smudge on Bobbi Brown Cream Shadow Stick in ÔÇÿBarkÔÇÖ was the backstage favourite, then add lashings of mascara. For the Jena.Theo look keep everything simple so you can create a statement with a bold orange lip, try Bobbi Brown Creamy Matt lipstick in ÔÇÿJennaÔÇÖ as used for the show. Above you can see the gorgeous Irene from Bobbi Brown rocking a pink tipped Tux-mani using two of the new Bobbi Brown summer shades. This is such an easy look to recreate with any colours, but looks super sleek.

LFW AW13: Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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Climate Revolution is the only means towards a sound economy. When the general public massively switches on to this fact we will win.

What’s good for the planet is good for the economy.

It seems rather trivial to go on to talk about clothes when┬á the message Vivienne is trying so hard to get across is one of utmost importance. I have spoken before about the Climate Revolution, not wanting to repeat myself I will just mention the new part of the Climate Revolution Charter Vivienne handed out on the show notes. She used an emblem of two snakes eating each other to represent ‘climate’ and ‘economy’ and how they go hand in hand. Pointing out how our economic system is run for profit and causes huge waste.

Even though the Red Label collection is quite far removed from the outlandish designs Westwood is know for, we can await the Gold Label show in Paris for that, it has design sensibilities of its own. Red Label is now a go-to for the working woman, perfectly tailored suits, easy to wear figure perfecting dresses, prim cardigans. This ethos was echoed by the final model storming down the runway with a clipboard in hand. Was she busy at work, or busy saving the planet? There is no denying these are beautiful clothes, with tailoring quirks characteristic of Westwood which can be dressed up or down as the wearer may choose. The choice for the show, owing to tradition, was to push the boundaries in the hair and make-up departments. The model’s appeared like a Lichtenstien graphic, all bouffant hair and vivid coloured make up, the lines of the face broken up and played around with. There were no forlorn tears over hapless boyfriends from these girls however. Westwood’s girl is always a fighter, forever imbuing the punk spirit as the Dame does herself, taking her walk wearing the t-shirt she designed in support of Julian Assange.

The show opened with a rugby striped midi-length coat in cobalt and maroon, thigh socks to match of course. The tiger stripe was key to the collection, tying together everything from cocoon jackets to a statement metallic dress with layers and layers of tulle underskirt. The pallet was shades of blue and red highlighted with baby pink and shimmering pewter. The influence of the new Red Label design team (Vivienne herself does not design the collection, rather her team takes inspiration from previous works) which was first seen in SS13 is still evident. As with the previous season there are pieces which don’t quite fit with the usual Westwood aesthetic – the loose fitting sequin top, with a vintage 80s feel stands out, however I think they are settling in well. The tailoring of the jackets with the silver orb buttons is a nice touch from the archives whilst the iridescent beetle leather jacket stole the show. Also new to the Westwood team are the shoe makers Peron, replacing Meg as of SS13. I have been divided about how I feel for the loss of Meg, having created many classic designs for Westwood but also fixating of late on the virtually unwearable ‘Skyscraper’ heel – detrimental to sales I am sure. Peron delved back into the shoe archive for SS13 restyling classic boot designs from the SEX years wavy top with kitten heel and taking the Prostitute shoe to new hights- literally, there was a style to suit all tastes. This season the Strobe shoe was back, a large ‘tongue’ licking over the shoe vamp with a cone heel. The Melissa shoes were featured again, this season in transparent and pale pink with oversized chain-style ankle cuffs.

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LFW AW13: Day 3

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It’s P’Trique!!!!! The best celeb I’ve spotted all Fashion Week, alas the pap’s were more excited over a member of One Direction. On the plus side it gave me some space to go snap P’Trique and tell him how much I love the YouTube Videos such as Sh*t Fashion Girls Say.

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Fashion Scout Ones to Watch was technically yesterday but that post was already massive! Yeashin really hit my fashion spot with a spectacular collection featuring folkloric knitwear.

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I went backstage at Fashion Scout with Sharon Ashton to see the amazing nails she created for the Dans la Vie show. The look was long talons in black and nude to compliment the dark smokey eye and sculpted cheeks.

Street Style

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What Pearl Wore

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┬áToday I wore a bit of a mixed up outfit, due to the whole random weather issue and a mix up with a dress I’d ordered I didn’t really have anything to wear especially for the Westwood show so threw this lot on, all Vivienne Westwood like you needed to ask! I have also been wearing my Comic Relief t-shirts but it’s been a bit too chilly to show them off, must remember to get a shot.

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Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

LW AW13: Day 2

The Shows

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Antipodium

The most incredible colours and textures, next season it will be velvet boots with everything!

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The prints, the prints always the most incredible prints! This season was no different with a serpent feel.

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Orla Kiely

I joined the Bobbi Brown team backstage again, huge thanks to Irene, today at Orla Kiely. The look was a chic but laid back Bardot, smokey eye and subtle shimmer lip.

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The show it’s self had a sexy-secretary cheeky nudge to it, one thing Kiely never fails to offer is a beautifully thought out show set. She put the girls to work 9-5, although in the most stylishly dressed office I have ever seen!

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Bolzoni & Walsh

Tough biker girls, smouldering insouciantly in velvet and leathers, luxury basics at their best.

Street Style

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A beautiful array of pretty prints and bold colours, enjoy!

What Pearl Wore

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Keeping with the knitwear theme I wore Vivienne Westwood again, I also had these beautiful vintage sunglasses from TK Maxx for when the sun decided to put in an appearance! I was wearing my Comic Relief t-shirt although it was a bit to chilly to show it off.

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Fashion Pearls of Wisdom + TK Maxx for LFW

Vivienne Westwood MAN AW13

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My personal favourite looks from the Vivienne Westwood MAN AW13 Collection. Absolutely adore the new tartan suits, bold knitwear and oversized capes and tunics. You can see the full collection on Vogue.com. How gorgeous is the snap of Vivienne and Andreas talking their finale walk.

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Urban Commuter: Vivienne Westwood MAN SS13

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Should almost any other designer quote ‘urban commuter’ as a reference for their latest collection, I am sure you would join me in an eye roll. I mean, could you imagine Donatella Versace or Tom Form on the tube? Of course not, however always true to her words Dame Vivienne Westwood can regularly be seen hopping on and off the tube, that’s when she isn’t riding her bicycle (usually in sky high shoes). An introduction to the collection was presented at Harrods – in the loading bay, with sculptures made from urban waste. the aim to inspire people to join her Climate Revolution.

“The revolutionary sculptures made from recycled metal and found objects that are featured within the installation were created by London born artist Joe Rush. The main structure, is entitled ÔÇÿRustang SallyÔÇÖ and was built by both Joe and artist Alex Wreckage to journey across the Black Rock Desert in Nevada, USA. It was created entirely from disregarded Cadillacs and re-cycled Chevrolet parts.

Both Vivienne Westwood and artist Joe Rush share a common culture and interest in defending the planet- so joined together their talent, their indignations and their combativeness in an artistic and political process.”

The clothes reflected the theme well, with a real street wear edge. Hoodies with visors, drop crotch trousers pair with high-tops, abstract leopard print knits and my personal favourite the plus-fours in coloured houndstooth. Reflective strips were use, a design quirk seen on her AW12 Gold Label suiting and presumably practical for riding your bike whilst looking stylish. For the more classic gent trademark tartan suits were present in lush plum tartan, as were soft wool tailored over coats.

The full collection will be show in Milan, 13th January.

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(Images courtesy Vivienne Westwood)

25 Years of Antoni & Alison (SS13)

Antoni & Alison SS13 ‘New Work’

How do you celebrate 25 years in fashion? Hire a marching brass band perhaps? Well that is exactly what design duo Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts did to launch their SS13 collection, marking their 25th year designing together. Rather than looking back they announced they would be looking forward with this collection of characteristic collage prints and dress. Every print was created by hand using traditional paints, spray cans, felt tip, charcoal and glitter – no computers here. The pair have a quirky, tongue in cheek humour and their press releases always a joy to read. They state they also used ‘necessary sparkle and gold leaf’ and ‘we also used every colour we own’. The prints ruled dictating the shapes, sometimes the shapes were altered better to fit the patterns. Other areas were blacked out where colour was not required. The result, some of their most striking prints and lust worthy dresses to date.

The fabulous Marching Band

Beauty up close, created by Jo Frost for MAC

See more from the show in my Facebook Album