MFW AW11: More of the Lush Stuff

If I had to choose just one word to describe Milan Fashion Week it would be ‘rich’, rich in colour, texture and vibrancy.
Velvet Boots
If there were one thing to go onto my lust list for A/W it would have to be a pair of jewel coloured velvet boots.

Alberta Ferretti
Jewel Colours
Bold jewel colours were a main theme through out many collections, there is nothing like such richness to make me long for winter.

Iceberg, Gucci, Gucci

Prada, Prada, Jil Sander

Cropped Flares

My favourite cut belongs to the cropped wide leg trouser, worn with blazer or sweater they add an air of elegance.

Giorgio Amarni, Giorgio Amarni, Etro

Shiny, Shiny
Taking the richness to another level was the use, not just of colour but of texture. A nice addition of shiny things allowed the darker fabrics to reflect and bounce off their swankier counterparts.

Etro, Etro, Etro

Versus, Iceberg, Moschino

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
This section has become a favourite feature of mine, a chance to look at the quirkier happenings. Annoyingly everything in Milan is always so bloody beautiful it makes working these categories a bit hard but hey go with it.
The good, surely has to go to Moschino Cheap and Chic for these three ‘ode to fashion week’ dresses, London, NY and Paris, super fun and yet I do have to wonder where was the Milan dress?

Moschino cheap and chic
The Bad was pretty tricky, but it has to go to Dolce & Gabbana, whilst credit is due of course to their diverse dip into tailoring, when it was good it was very, very good:

But when it was bad, it was horrid! I just cannot get my head around the peculiar tailored baby grows!

Dolce & Gabbana
Finally The Ugly is awarded to Missoni, why you gasp, with a strong collection of beautiful pastel colours and intricate knits. Well I just can’t love the snake skin wellies or the hounds tooth trousers/ holey knit/ snakeskin duster, no matter how much I adore the colour or the rest of the collection.


So over to you, what did you love / hate??

MFW My Favourites: Suited & Booted

Most of my collection overviews this season have involved some berating of reviewers, however I feel it only fair to also shower some praise their way. If there is one writer who knows his stuff it is Tim Blanks, his reviews I can trust to be well written, eloquent, educated and a pleasure to read. Here I wanted to share his review of the Versace show:

“If Donatella Versace brought it all back home to Via Ges├╣ for her men’s show in June, it was always going to be the women’s show that really underscored her refreshed commitment to the heritage of the house. Guests who remembered skirting security at this very location in her brother Gianni’s heyday were positively misty-eyed when they walked into the tented garden where today’s presentation took place. And, in keeping with her recent confident exploration of the family archive, Donatella plucked one of the most graphic elements from Versace’s past to mark this watershed moment. But she did it her way. The baroque curlicues that were once a house signature were blown up into a single boldly colored detailÔÇöa vine, a flowerÔÇöand dropped onto a shift in black wool crepe. It was simple and strong, exactly what Donatella wanted.

The same boldness shaped a black sheath with a snaky strand of emerald green python coiling around Isabeli Fontana’s body. And the snaky-ness was amplified in a python sheath. In fact, the collection reclaimed skins for the house, especially with a midnight leather jacket and matching box-pleated skirt. But what might look most seductive to customers next fall is the military influence. It loaned a short, sharp silhouette to a double-breasted black coat, a white coat-dress, and a gold-buttoned cadet jacket and matching skirt.

These looks were so immediate that they had a curious side effect: The eveningwear that is a Versace mainstay came across as almost an afterthought, bar the final glittering silver column with its trail of white marabou and vampish silent-movie-queen oomph.”

Tim Blanks,

Almost as beautiful as the clothes right! One thing I have noticed over in Milan amongst the bright colours and slinky dresses, was a toughness to the collections. Here Donatella paired the dresses with boots, not unlike those worn by boxers, in fact the bold snake-like prints also gave an edge of dominance.

Versace AW11

A similar air was felt at Prada where Miuchia sent the girls out clutching their bags like shields and wearing fur like the royal guard. Rather than pretty mary-jane shoes she chose Trompe L’oeil boots, the same girly effect yet with a hardness. Glitter and acid bright skins were used like reptiles showing a warning, I might be pretty but I am also tough.

Prada AW11

Tailoring was also a strong theme yet D&G managed to make it cool, vibrant colours and prints worn nonchalantly with sneakers and sunglasses.

D&G AW11

For me Salvatore Ferragamo was the best in show, this was suiting, still in a ball-breaker way yet sexy, but womens sexy if you know what I mean. The cropped trousers and layers of matching fabrics worn like impenetrable armour, and I mean who doesn’t like a bit of matchy-matchy!!

Salvatore Ferragamo AW11